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Casa do Frango’s Portuguese summer spread – recipes | Food

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Chargrilled spicy cauliflower with coriander yoghurt (pictured above)

Prep 10 min
Marinate 1 hr-plus
Cook 20 min
Serves 4 as a starter or side

2-3 red chillies, stem, seeds and pith removed and discarded, flesh roughly chopped (20g net weight)
1 medium red pepper, stem, seeds and pith removed and discarded, flesh roughly chopped (120g net weight)
50ml olive or sunflower oil
100g piquillo peppers from a jar, drained and roughly chopped
1 tsp sea salt
1 tsp sugar
¾ tbsp sherry vinegar
1 large cauliflower, trimmed and cut into quarters
100g fresh coriander
500g Greek yoghurt
1 big pinch hot dry chilli flakes
, or to taste
20ml maple syrup
50g pistachios, shelled and roughly chopped
1½ tbsp picked flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped

Put the first seven ingredients in a blender and blitz to a paste.

Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil, blanch the cauliflower quarters for 90 seconds, then transfer to a colander to cool. Once cool enough to handle, spread the pepper paste all over the cauliflower and leave to marinate for at least an hour.

Blend the coriander with 100g yoghurt, then fold this into the rest of the yoghurt and set aside. Mix the chilli flakes into the maple syrup.

Heat a griddle pan (or barbecue) until very hot, then char the cauliflower quarters on all their flat surfaces for about five minutes on each side, until a skewer goes through easily. Once thoroughly charred and cooked through, brush with the chilli maple syrup and serve topped with the coriander yoghurt and a sprinkling of pistachios and parsley.

Bacalafel fritters

Casa do Frango’s bacalafel fritters.
Casa do Frango’s bacalafel fritters.

Soak 24-48 hr
Prep 10 min
Cook 1 hr
Serves 4-6 as a starter or snack

2 heads garlic, plus 1 peeled clove extra
200g piece dried salt cod, soaked in cold water for 24-36 hours, changing the water every 12 hours (375g rehydrated weight)
1 bay leaf
2 black peppercorns
500g dried chickpeas, soaked in cold water for 12 hours (1kg rehydrated weight)
2½-3 tbsp picked flat-leaf parsley
1 big pinch smoked paprika
Sea salt and black pepper
Vegetable oil, for frying
Lemon wedges, to serve

Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4. Put the whole garlic heads in a small oven dish, drizzle with a little oil, then roast for 40 minutes. Remove and, when it’s cool enough to handle, squeeze out the flesh and push through a fine sieve to make a smooth puree.

Meanwhile, put the drained salt cod in a saucepan with the bay leaf, peppercorns and garlic clove, add water just to cover, bring to a boil, then turn down to a simmer for eight minutes. Drain the cod, keeping the water and discarding the bay, peppercorns and garlic, then leave to cool. Once the fish is cool enough to handle, peel off and discard the skin, then flake the flesh and check for any bones.

Drain the soaked chickpeas – they should now weigh about 1kg – tip into a blender and blitz to a coarse paste. Add the garlic puree, parsley and paprika, and blitz again, then slowly add the reserved cod cooking water until the mix is the consistency of a thick hummus, then blend in the flaked fish. Pull off a small piece and fry in a little oil to test the texture; add more cooking water to the base mix as necessary, season to taste, then refrigerate until you’re ready to cook.

Fill a nonstick, high-sided frying pan with 1cm vegetable oil. Carefully drop quenelle-shaped tablespoons of the fritter mixture into the oil (about 25g each) and fry for 90 seconds to two minutes on each side, until golden and crisp on the outside and creamy in the middle. (Shape any excess mix into fritters and freeze – they can be cooked from frozen, and will take six to eight minutes.)

Serve with lemon wedges for squeezing over and, if you like, some aïoli for dipping.

Piri-piri chicken

Casa do Frango’s piri-piri chicken.
Casa do Frango’s piri-piri chicken.

In Portugal, this is always cooked over wood or coals, but if you don’t have a barbecue, you can still get a pretty good approximation in a domestic oven. Coat the chicken in olive oil, season all over with salt and roast, ideally on a trivet, in a 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6 oven for 45 minutes to an hour, depending on the size of the bird – it should have a beautifully crisp skin and the juices should run clear from the thickest parts. Then glaze as in the method below – make the glaze at least a day ahead.

Prep 15 min
Steep 1 day
Cook 45 min
Serves 4

For the glaze
500ml sunflower oil
25g peeled garlic
15ml lemon juice
2-3 tsp extra-hot chilli flakes, or to taste
⅓ tsp salt

For the chicken
1 chicken (900g-1kg), free-range for preference, reverse spatchcocked (ie, cut through the breast rather than the backbone – ask a butcher to do this, if need be)
Sea salt
100ml glazing oil (see above)

At least a day ahead, put all the glaze ingredients in a blender and blitz smooth, then tip into a container and refrigerate. This makes more glaze than you need for this dish, but it’s not really worth making in smaller quantities, and the excess keeps in the fridge for up to a fortnight; use it to marinate or glaze all sorts.

Get the barbecue going – in Portugal, piri-piri chicken is always cooked over charcoal or wood, never gas (having said that, see note above). Once the charcoal is ready, liberally season the bird all over with salt, then lay it skin side down on the grill and leave for three minutes. Flip, cook for a minute more, then flip again and repeat, until the bird is cooked through (it should have an internal temperature of 75C) and the skin is crisp; this should take about 25 minutes in all. (To check it’s done, use a knife to pierce between the thighs and breast bone: the flesh should be white and firm and the juices should run clear.)

Once the chicken is done, lift it off the grill, paint all over with glaze and leave to rest in a warm spot for five minutes. Transfer the bird to a board, cut it in half down the centre of the spine, then cut each half into five. Brush the chicken pieces with more glaze, making sure they’re all well coated, then transfer to a warmed platter, and brush with glaze one final time. Serve with chips and a green salad.

Pastel de nata

Casa do Frango’s pastel de nata.
Casa do Frango’s pastel de nata.

Prep 10 min
Cook 45 min, plus chilling
Makes 20

For the tarts
1 sheet ready-rolled puff pastry
660ml whole milk
1 wide strip lemon zest
½ cinnamon stick
70g butter
100g strong flour
25g cornflour
8 egg yolks, whisked
1 whole egg, whisked
Ground cinnamon, for dusting (optional)

For the syrup
500g caster sugar
250ml water
1 cinnamon stick
Zest of 1 lemon, plus 30ml freshly squeezed juice
Zest of 1 orange

Lay the pastry sheet on a worktop, then roll up into a sausage (it should be about the same size as a standard rolling pin). Cut into 2cm-thick discs, and place a disc in the middle of 20 greased moulds in two 12-hole muffin tins. With wet fingers, push the dough to fill the base of the mould and then up the sides, to make an even, thin lining, then put the tin in the freezer to rest and set.

Put all the syrup ingredients in a small pan, bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar, cook until it hits 106C, then turn off the heat and leave to cool.

Now for the filling. Put 460ml of the milk in a pan with the lemon zest and cinnamon stick, bring to a simmer, then turn off the heat, stir in the butter until melted and leave to cool a little. Meanwhile, put the remaining milk in a bowl, then add the two flours bit by bit, to incorporate. When the milk in the pan is warm, add the flour mix and cook on low heat, stirring constantly, until it starts to thicken – about five to 10 minutes. Turn off the heat, stir in all but a tablespoon or so of the syrup, then pass through a fine sieve and leave to cool. Once cool, refrigerate and leave to thicken.

Heat the oven to its highest setting ie, 240C (220C fan)/465F/gas 9. Mix the egg yolks and whole egg into the custard until combined, then carefully pour into the frozen pastry moulds until filled up to 2mm from the top – about 80ml per tart. Bake for eight or nine minutes, until the custard starts to caramelise and blister and the pastry turns golden brown. Carefully transfer the pastels from their moulds to a rack, spray the tops lightly with the reserved syrup and leave to cool and set for at least half an hour. Dust with a little cinnamon, if you like, and serve warm or at room temperature.

• Recipes by Lucien Green, head chef, Casa do Frango, London.

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Parts unknown: whole animal recipes from Feather and Bone | Meat

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Traditional whole-animal butcheries have become a rarity in many developed countries.

The overwhelming majority of domestic and export meat in Australia is traded through the commodity meat market. Much of the meat produced for this market will be sourced from farms that are organised around the primary goal of maximising turnover of animals. As a system that rewards volume and speed, it works brilliantly.

But if you’re a farmer or butcher or consumer interested in other dimensions of value, such as traceable animal and environmental welfare standards, then it will come up short. This is because when a farmer sells into the mainstream commodity market, their animals disappear into a generic product pool.

Filled with crusading zeal for a better food model, we decided that our commitment to transparency and a whole-animal practice meant two things. First, we would seek out diverse breeds of animals grown on farms managed with the goal of improving the entire ecosystem. Second, we wouldn’t buy boxed meat from a wholesaler, but instead would always buy meat on the bone direct from the farmer, offal and all.

Of course, if your business is built around buying the whole animal, then you also have to sell it, which can be challenging. Many of us have lost the traditional skills that allowed us to prepare and consume the whole animal. Eating offal was something quaint our grandparents did, and these days we spend more time watching cooking shows than we actually do preparing food. All of this means we default to the cuts we know how to cook, and we’re less likely to choose the unfamiliar ones.

Change is hard and change is slow but from little things big things grow.

Tammi’s crispy slow cooked pig’s ear banh mi

Feeds: 4-6
Active prep: 15 minutes
Cook: 8 hours
Chill: Up to 24 hours

“When we first started selling our pastured pork, I had only been eating meat for about seven years, after a decade of vegetarianism, and was determined to make use of every part of the animals we raise with such care. And so my crispy pig’s ear banh mi was born, of necessity and respect, inspired by regular visits to Vietnam over the years. Banh mi are best when there is a balance of fat, fresh, sweet, sour, salt and spice, all wrapped up in a crispy baguette with a soft centre. These crispy pig’s ear banh mi capture that formula perfectly, and also leave room for everyone at the table to self-determine their own ratios of each constituent flavour.”

Tammi Jonas, producer and activist

For the pigs’ ears
4 pasture-raised pigs’ ears
1 leek,
coarsely chopped
3 garlic cloves,
lightly crushed, still in skin
50g palm sugar
300ml pasture-raised pork bone broth or chicken stock
200ml Shaoxing rice wine
200ml soy sauce
6 star anise
1 cinnamon stick
3 eggs
Plain (all-purpose) flour,
for dusting
60g panko breadcrumbs
Lard or rendered animal fat
, for deep-frying

For the banh mi
4-6 fried eggs
Freshly made mayonnaise or aioli
, to serve
40g lightly pickled carrot

2 cucumbers, cut into batons
Long red chilli, coarsely chopped, to taste
Coriander leaves, to serve
Fish sauce, to serve
Crusty baguette or white rolls, to serve

Start this recipe one or two days ahead. Preheat oven to 120C (235F). Place pigs’ ears in an ovenproof dish with leek, garlic, sugar, broth or stock, Shaoxing, soy sauce and spices. Cover with baking paper, seal tightly with foil, and braise for about eight hours, or overnight, until very tender.

Place ears on a cooling rack in the fridge to dry out for up to one day. Slice ears into thin strips. Beat eggs in a wide bowl and place flour and breadcrumbs in separate bowls. Dust pigs’ ears in flour, shaking off excess, dip in egg, then coat in breadcrumbs. Melt 5cm fat in a deep, heavy-based saucepan until shimmering, then deep-fry ears for two to three minutes until crisp and golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a wire rack.

Serve pigs’ ears in baguettes or rolls, and offer fried eggs, mayonnaise, pickled carrot, cucumber, chilli, coriander and fish sauce for people to fill as they like. Voila – a crunchy, salty, sweet, sour, spicy banh mi made with a part of the pig most people wouldn’t know what to do with. Uncommonly delicious.

Christopher’s seared liver with tomatoes and caramelised onions

Feeds: 2-4, depending on the size of the liver
Prep: 15 minutes
Cook: 30 minutes

Christopher’s seared liver
Photograph: Alan Benson

“I’m an artist, but my father was a butcher, and we had a nice little herd of Black Angus for a while. My first cooking job was to make the Saturday morning butcher’s breakfast, before I did the deliveries. So I used whatever morsels were around – liver, ends of bacon, kidneys, little lamb chops – fried them up in an old electric frying pan, then served them on a slab of thickly buttered bread. It was a tough gig, as butchers don’t like their meat ruined, so timing was everything. I love good fresh liver, served medium–rare, with jammy onion and pan-roasted tomatoes. Sear the liver at the last minute while the sourdough bread is toasting.”

– Christopher Hodges, Feather and Bone customer

40g butter, plus extra for spreading
2 tablespoons olive oil
2-4 brown onions (1 per person)
, diced
250g cherry tomatoes
, halved
1 lamb, goat or calf (veal) liver
, rinsed, membrane removed, sliced into 1.5cm strips
1 handful flat-leaf parsley leaves
, chopped
2-4 slices sourdough bread

Add a generous knob of butter to a frying pan over medium-high heat. Swirl for two to three minutes until lightly browned, then add a good dash of olive oil. Add onion and a large pinch of salt, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring gently, for 15-20 minutes. The onion will slowly turn golden, then brown, sweet and yummy.

Meanwhile, heat a separate frying pan over medium-high heat. Add tomatoes – they’ll sizzle as they hit the pan – then add a bit more butter, season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper, and cook, turning once, for five minutes or until lightly browned and juicy.

Drizzle liver all over with remaining olive oil. Heat a heavy-based frying pan over medium-high heat, add liver and sear it quickly, without turning, for one minute until sealed and caramelised a little, then turn it quickly and sear for another minute until nicely browned but still rare in the middle. Transfer to a plate, season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper and top with parsley, then cover with an upturned bowl or a lid – it will keep cooking so by the time you serve it will be cooked through but still pink in the middle.

Meanwhile, toast sourdough in a toaster. Butter toast, and top with onions, tomatoes and liver to serve.

Norman’s lamb tongue with numbing chilli and tahini sauce

Feeds: 4-6 as a shared entrée
Prep: 20 minutes
Cook: 2 hours (five minutes with pressure cooker)
Special equipment: Pressure cooker (optional)

Norman’s lamb tongue with numbing chilli and tahini sauce
Photograph: Alan Benson

“This recipe is from northern China, where middle Asian and Arabian influences blend with the complex beauty of Sichuan cooking to shine brightly. It often uses sliced pork belly but I think lamb tongue, with its tender buttery texture, is much more luxurious. This recipe is also a good way to use up any leftover roast lamb.”

– Norman Lee, Feather and Bone customer

For the tongue
500g lamb’s tongues
2 small star anise
2 cloves
½ cinnamon stick
1 tablespoon Sichuan peppercorns
3 bay leaves
1 tablespoon sunflower oil
Coarsely chopped coriander leaves
, to serve
1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds

Numbing chilli-oil vinaigrette
25g crushed Sichuan peppercorns
100 ml sunflower oil
2 tablespoons black (Chinkiang) vinegar
1 tablespoon chilli oil (I use Lao Gan Ma brand)
1 garlic clove, finely chopped

Tahini sauce
1 tablespoon tahini
1 tablespoon sesame oil
½ tablespoon light soy sauce

If you have a pressure cooker, fill it with the minimum amount of water, then add tongues, star anise, cloves, cinnamon, Sichuan pepper, bay leaves and one teaspoon of salt. Heat until it comes to full pressure, cook for five minutes, allow to cool, then drain.

Alternatively, add tongues, spices, bay leaves and salt to a large saucepan, add enough water just to cover, bring to the boil, skim surface, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer gently for two hours or until just tender – a skewer should pass through with only a little resistance.

Rest the tongues until they’re cool enough to handle, then peel off the skin with a small knife while they are still warm. Slice tongues thinly lengthwise – you should get about four slices per tongue.

Meanwhile, to make vinaigrette, warm crushed Sichuan pepper in oil in a small saucepan over low heat for three to five minutes or until fragrant – be careful, it can burn quickly. Remove from heat and steep for 10 minutes to extract all the fragrance. Strain, discarding Sichuan pepper, and combine oil with remaining ingredients.

The Ethical Omnivore cover

Whisk all tahini sauce ingredients with three tablespoons of warm water until smooth and silky. Add more water if needed; sauce should be a pouring consistency. Season to taste with salt.

For a cold summer dish, arrange tongue on a plate. (For a warm dish, heat oil in a frying pan over medium–high heat, add tongues, and cook, turning halfway, for three to five minutes until crisp and golden.)

To serve, spoon the tahini sauce over. Splash on the chilli-oil vinaigrette, pile chopped coriander in the middle, and sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds. Toss at the table and serve.

  • This is an edited extract from The Ethical Omnivore by Laura Dalrymple and Grant Hilliard, photography by Alan Benson. Murdoch Books RRP $39.99.

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Rachel Roddy’s recipe for aubergine with tomatoes | Food

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Even though, in these everything-always times, they never actually went away, it is not unreasonable to say that aubergines are back for the summer. Front row, heaped high, two euros a kilo: thank you very much.

Melanzana nera, the black beauty: some round, others like big tears with elfin hats. Melanzana violetta lunga: as slim as a carrot, as long as a cucumber and inky purple-black. Melanzana tonda viola with its grapefruit proportions and the colour of amethyst. Melanzana zebrina viola: streaked white and violet, like the inside cover of a fancy book. What an enviably striking bunch; and members of the deadly nightshade family – no wonder some were distrustful when this exquisite vegetable, believed to have originated in India and been brought to Europe by the Arabs, was first cultivated in Sicily and Spain. For some, that distrust and diffidence persisted for centuries. Pianta volgare (“vulgar plant”) was how the naturalist Pietro Andrea Mattioli referred to aubergine in 1568, on observing its frequent use by the volgo, or common people, who ate it “fried in oil, with salt and pepper, like mushrooms”.

Aubergines are the ants of the vegetable world, their ability much greater than their size. Rather than lifting, though, the aubergine absorbs – up to four times its own weight in liquid – soaking and sopping up whatever it is (oil, sauce, stock, like a sponge. Until it becomes the camel, when heat and salt breaks it. This reverses the process and it expels its own liquid, which evaporates, intensifying flavour and turning the aubergine from a foam mattress to a fat and silky one.

It is the ant and the camel aspects of aubergine that we want to harness in this recipe for aubergines cooked al funghetto. It’s a Neapolitan recipe, the name of which refers to the diced aubergine both looking and being cooked like mushrooms. Cubes of aubergine absorb olive oil with a deep or shallow fry, but then the heat, salt and stirring help to expel the liquid. Like a pushy parent, the cook then adds more liquid in the form of tomato juices, and the aubergine releases more combined juices back into a sauce, which thickens and clings. It is a claustrophobic circle that one friend refers to as “a pass the parcel of flavours”.

This circle is a reminder that, in cooking vegetables, so much depends on how we manage the water content of the veg in question. Talking of water, you don’t need to do a preliminary salt for this recipe, unless they are bitter (taste and see), in which case an hour sprinkled with coarse salt is worthwhile.

The aubergine skin seems even blacker after cooking and glints like squares of tourmaline, with its fringe of oil, in the red slump of tomatoes. We eat melanzane al funghetto with lumps of salted ricotta or feta, pan-melted cheese such as scamorza, provola or halloumi, or with boiled potatoes. It is also a dish unto itself, needing only bread in order that the thick, oily juices, which have already been soaked up and released, can be soaked up once more, by us. After all, we are all sponges.

Aubergine with tomatoes – melanzane al funghetto

Serves 4
1-1.2 kg aubergines
Olive oil
2 garlic cloves
400g cherry tomatoes
, quartered
Salt
1 tbsp capers
1 small handful basil

Cut the aubergines into 1.5cm dice and squeeze them dry with kitchen towel.

In a large, deep frying pan set over a medium flame, warm six tablespoons of olive oil until hot, then add the aubergine cubes and fry, moving them constantly with a wooden spoon, until soft and golden. Tip on to a plate.

Heat two tablespoons of olive oil in the same pan, add the garlic – crushed for a milder flavour, sliced for a stronger one, chopped for the strongest – and fry until fragrant, being careful not to let it burn. Add the tomatoes and a pinch of salt, then cook over a lively heat for five minutes.

Add the capers, then stir in the aubergine and cook for another 10 minutes, adding the basil in the last minutes of cooking.

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Make a Tasty Dish of Butter Broiled Florida Spiny Lobster Tails

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Fresh From Florida Recipe

ABOVE VIDEO: Fresh From Florida shows you how to make a delicious recipe of butter broiled Florida spiny lobster tails.

BREVARD COUNTY, FLORIDA – Fresh From Florida shows you how to make a delicious recipe of butter broiled Florida spiny lobster tails.

INGREDIENTS

 4 (6-9-ounce) Florida spiny lobster tails, split open in the shell

 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened at room temperature

 Favorite spice blend

 Sea salt and fresh ground pepper, to taste

PREPARATION

 Preheat oven broiler on medium high. Place all 4 of the lobsters on a cookie sheet and make sure they are opened up down the middle.

 Evenly spread the softened butter over each of the lobster tails’ meat. Lightly season each lobster tail with salt and pepper. Place lobsters in the oven on the middle rack under the broiler.

 Let lobster cook under the broiler for about 7 minutes or until just barely cooked throughout. Remove lobsters from oven and let cool slightly. Serve lobster tails warm with fresh lemon.

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